Sunday, August 22, 2010

A Sedate Sunday



After my eventful Saturday I opted for a much quieter day on Sunday. I started in the downtown area which is absolutely dead on a Sunday morning.

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I ducked into the cathedral just as a service was starting. It was much more elaborate than any catholic service I had attended anywhere else with bishop-looking guy, a priest, five assistant priests and an alter boy. Eight in all. Holy water sprinkling and lots of incense.


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I learned in Seattle that a nice, inexpensive way to see the sights is to jump on a ferry. There was a ferry dock downtown so I decided to jump on board and see where it took me. It went across the bay affording great views of the city from the water. I took the same boat right back again.

People who live across the bay joke that they have the best views in Rio...because their view is of Rio.
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After the ferry I took the subway back to Ipanema beach. Nearby every Sunday they have a "Hippie Fair". It is a city block filled with booths of various kinds of arts and crafts for sale.
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The weather was much nicer on Sunday so I finally got my proper Rio beach scene. The beaches go for miles and are gorgeous in more ways than one.




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Too soon it was time to head back to the airport and back to work the next day.

Monday afternoon I came down with a cold that has lingered for more than two weeks. I must have caught a bug in Rio. So I guess what happens in Rio doesn't stay in Rio! Too bad!


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You can see all of my Rio pictures (but not the videos) at My Wild Weekend in Rio

Samba School

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Carnaval is a big holiday season in Rio. It takes place during the 40 days before Easter but preparation for it goes on all year long. During Carnaval about a dozen "samba schools" compete to present the best show of music, dance and costumes. Lusi is involved in some way with the Salgueiro Samba School which has won many of the annual completions. They practice every week and Lusi thought I might enjoy watching.
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I was much too tired to even contemplate it after a long day running around Rio. I would have thought that the samba school would run from something like 9 pm to midnight, but no way! It doesn't really get going until after midnight and lasts past 3 am. But after an evening nap I was refreshed and ready to go though Lusi did promise to send me home at 2 if I was too tire to stay. We arrived around 11.

The Samba School auditorium kind of reminded me of a high school gym. Not at all fancy. Inexpensive plastic tables and chairs. It held about a thousand people. A stage on one side and a corp of drummers high up on the opposite side. Most of the people were down on the main floor but Lusi had a small group in box seats up above.

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Much of the program was singing. Some very good, some not so good. A couple of speeches... very boring when you don't speak Portuguese and maybe even if you do. The drummers were very good.
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Then there was the dancing. It was wildly, beautifully sensual. I liked that part the best...

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Towards the end of my stay there was some kind of show on the floor with judging. There I saw the first signs of the elaborate feathery costumes they wear for the big competition at Carnaval.

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I had had enough by 1:45 and as promised, Lusi sent me home in a cab. Now that really was a wild ride. Much scarier than the motorcycles that morning!

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Sugar Loaf




After the beach we headed up to Sugar Loaf.


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Stuck out in the middle of the bay it has spectacular views in every direction.














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Gondolas hanging from cables take you quickly to the top. First to the lower mountain then to higher one...






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Coming down to the lower part of the mountain we ran into this strange creature. An ugly monkey? I have no idea what it is...

Ipanema Beach




After the favela we went to the Ipanema beach for a quick lunch. The beach was stunningly beautiful but nearly empty. The day was one of the coldest of the year in Rio at around 65 degrees Fahrenheit. This is not the Rio beach scene I had been looking forward to! Well, I would have another chance on Sunday.
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Not all was lost. The beach really was lovely and peaceful and then we noticed the hang gliders. There were about 8 of them floating lazily in the air above the beach and then landing one by on the beach nearby.







The Rocinha Favela



After the Christ statue it was off to a favela. A favela is a kind of a slum where regular poor people live along side gangs and drug dealers. The movie "City of God" was about life in a favela. Many tour companies offer favela tours. I found the favela to be fascinating. It reminded me of parts of India. Lusi assured me that the favela was perfectly safe. There are drug dealers and “bad people” she said but they leave the tourists alone as long as they are with a guide. She said it is not allowed (by whom?) to rob tourists. The one caution she gave me was that I was to put my camera away when she told me to because these same “bad people” don’t like having there pictures taken and might decide to shoot you if they think you might be working the police. No problem! We went to the Rocinha favela, one of the largest in Rio.

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The main road in snakes up the side of the mountain affording the poor who live there million dollar views of the city. The way up for us was on the back of a motorcycle taxi. There was considerable discussion about me because they were worried about my weight but eventually one of the guys agreed to take me on. Now this really was a wild ride, weaving in and out of traffic, no helmet, winding up the road through the favela.

Take a look at these brief video clips...









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At the top we got off and a fellow wanted us to go look at his paintings which we did. I really liked them and bought one.


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The artist then kind of attached himself to us as our informal local guide. You couldn’t see a view of the city from street level so he led us through a back alleyway of the favela to a house with a spectacular view. The alley was a very narrow sidewalk but was teeming with life with lots of people and tiny stores open only to the alley...




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The first house we tried was locked with nobody home but the local guide found another family who was wiling to let us have a look at the view for a couple of dollars. We climbed a short, steep set of stairs and burst into this family's house. It had something like three floors, each a single room about 12' x 15' with a very narrow winding staircase in one corner leading from floor to floor. There was a TV a washing machine on one floor, a computer on another, a bedroom on the top floor, and then the roof with a ladder to climb to get to the very top.


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Like I said before, the view was a million dollar view with the city laid out at our feet.

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On our way back through the alley to the street I started to take a movie when Lusi suddenly turned and said "put that camera away". A bad guy.








We walked back down to the bottom without incident. I never did feel threatened but maybe that is a simple matter of luck and cluelessness. By absolute sheerest coincidence there was an small article in today's San Jose, California Mercury News newspaper that mentioned my favela...

One killed in Rio hotel shootout

By Felipe Dana, Associated Press
RIO DE JANEIRO - Heavily armed drug gang members engaged in an intense firefight with police, then fled into a luxury hotel popular with foreign tourists and held about 30 people hostage for three hours Saturday before surrendering.
The upscale, beachside neighborhood of Sao Conrado where the Intercontinental Hotel site was transformed into a war zone aw upward of 50 gunmen with high-caliber rifles, pistols and even hand grenades faced off with police.
A police spokesman said the gunbattle began when police spotted about 10 cars and vans leaving the Vidigal slum heading toward the nearby Rocinha slum, one of Latin America's largest.
Spent casings littered the streets around the hotel. One woman was killed, and four bystanders and three policemen were wounded.
The gang members were leaving an all-night party in Vidigal when they ran into the police patrol and began shooting.


Too bad I missed all the excitement. Some people just have no luck!

My Wild Weekend in Rio, August 7-8

After four weeks in the relatively sedate Brasilia I was ready for a change of pace and to see a different side of Brazil. So Friday night it was off to Rio de Janeiro for the weekend. Things did not start so auspiciously. I was waiting near the gate for my plane and it was getting later and later and no sign of the Rio flight. Finally I realized that they had switched gates and I don't understand Portuguese. I rushed over to the new gate and made it with just minutes to spare. Yahoo weather said it was going to be clear for the weekend but there was a steady drizzle as I rode in from the airport later that night. I just hoped it would clear by morning.

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The weather did clear up Saturday with some cloudiness but no more rain. With just two days at my disposal I decided to hire a private guide rather being shuttled around in a tour bus. My guide’s name was Lusi and she picked me up at the hotel at 9:30 Saturday morning. I told her I wanted to see the most famous sights, the Christ statue, Sugarloaf and the beaches but I was also interested in visiting a favela. More on that later.
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First up was the Christ statue. Our driver dropped us off at the cog rail train station at the foot of the mountain where the statue is. Lusi proved her value by skipping past the long lines and getting us on board on the train about to leave. Otherwise it would have been a 45 minute wait for the next train.

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The train took about 25 minutes to climb to the foot of the statue making its way through a dense jungle...


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The view was simply spectacular. Rio has to be the most naturally beautiful city I have ever seen with its mountains, jungles, water and beaches.






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To top it all off, there were monkeys up there too. I love monkeys!